How to: not be generic?
New York Fashion Week S/S 2023
New York Fashion Week is a discussion I always avoid participating in. Partially because I never have anything nice to say. And that’s actually quite problematic to me. So if I’m going to speak on this topic I’m going to have to challenge myself to dissect this from a different angle.
NYFW always has me questioning: what is American fashion…today?
There’s always a conversation about who is the best American designer, as this person was born in America and is making or once made clothing. But who is actually making clothing for Americans? What are American women wearing? Can anyone actually define what American fashion is?
So I then start thinking about the country in its many parts; West, Midwest, East, and South. Each sector operates at its own beat. The values of the people, the way they speak, how they spend their money, the way they dress, the music they listen to, the stories they tell, and the many ways the people express themselves is different across the country. Which explains why everyone’s perspective of what it means to be American, or simply live in America is different. The division is very evident. I see it every time NYFW comes around. And although I think it’s quite fascinating to see the many types of women who live in America be presented, something always feels quite off. It’s like we are playing a very odd game of tug of war. How to: not be generic? Trying so hard not to be, somehow has everyone looking like so. Predictable…that’s what NYFW has come to be. And maybe that’s what American fashion is, excessively bland. In the midst of all that we’ve seen before, there were a few collections this season that did catch my eye. These collections offered a new perspective, a hint of evolution. Within themselves as a brand, but also what American fashion has the potential to become.
I first became aware of Luar back in 2019 when Raul Lopez presented his Autumn/Winter collection. My attention was drawn to a pinstripe dress with broad shoulders and belts intertwined to gather it. It was certainly THE look of the collection. But I think it was overshadowed by all the fur and fabric combinations. Fast forward to this season, he’s perfected this pinstripe look. Since Lopez’s A/W 2019 collection there’s been this common theme of suiting, sporty, and sexy. And this collection is a beautiful balance of all three. I also believe that these 3 S’s demonstrate what American women are wearing today. Pieces that have form or accentuate their form. There’s a level of ease and a need for convenience, not much thought should have to be put into dressing, their pieces should get them through the day, the night, and everything in between. American women are all about practicality with a sprinkle of glamour, and I really love Lopez’s interpretation of this. Mastering his patchworking skills he’s integrated that structured tailoring he’s been inspired by over the years with nylon athleisure. The strong shoulders with a soft flowy bottom are brilliantly harmonious. It’s a combination that’s striking but still delicate, which I’m all about. I think Lopez’s perspective is personal, concrete, and consistent. His designs are remnants of the past that he continues to reflect upon and redefine. There’s this sense of graduation, the Luar woman has stepped into a new era. A woman who has always been experimental and really bound by no limitations has finally found confidence in what works for her. She’s bold, elegant, memorable, and forever a risk-taker!
But! When it comes to risk-taking there’s a very thin line between doing too much resulting in something gaudy, and actually knowing what works well together. Understanding complementary not only elevates your style but also allows your closet to be a lot more versatile. And one designer who does versatility very well is Peter Do. This season he showcased the many ways to design and wear a button-up. The possibilities are endless, you can have it in black, ombré, transparent, silky, stiff, pleated, wrapped, tucked in, with a cape, and sweeping the floors. But my very favorite, the cut-out in the back. Peter Do had many peek-a-boo moments throughout the collection. Which I honestly think is the sexiest way to do it, a little reveal here and there. Gone are the days when it’s all or nothing. Do is bringing us back to our fundamentals. Reminding us that the essentials are still seductive: a well-tailored blazer, a clean button-up, a pleated skirt, and nicely fitted trousers. So much can be done with these staple pieces. I’m always in search of something new: a new way of being, living, and expressing myself as I evolve as an individual. A sense of “newness” is a very personal experience. We’ve been brainwashed to believe that we need more, that we are limiting our existence if we don’t acquire more, and become a part of this fast pace cycle of innovations. When what we already have is more than enough and adaptable to trigger that sense of newness if we’re willing to look at it from a different perspective. It’s our perspective that limits our experiences, not the things we have.
Now I’m not saying to stop investing in your wardrobe, but to look at clothing with a different set of lenses. Really put some thought into how pieces mix in with your closet, do they have longevity? How many ways can a garment be worn? There’s not just one right way, there’s what we know and the many ways our brain discovers to be so. But most people don’t get that far. As long as it fits, that’s typically all that matters. This is why I fear that American fashion has failed to evolve over the years, people are content and attached to what they know. So when I found out that Ashlyn Park, a former patternmaker of Yohji Yamamoto, was showing at NYFW I was curious to see who she would present: her roots or an integration of what she knows and who she is. And it’s very clear that she’s using all that she’s learned to create something personal. Incorporating some of her romantic silhouettes from previous collections with a more sporty approach, Park is setting the tone for what her world looks like. This world sits right in between Luar and Peter Do. These three brands understand the importance of dressing, how essential clothing is in everyday life, and in all phases of our lives. They’ve taken key components of what’s become a part of our daily “uniform” and found a way to elevate it.
As I reflect upon American women, all that they are, all that they do, and all that they represent it’s very hard to put all those perspectives into a box and confidently say “this is American fashion”. American women are working women, they’re active and need clothing that gets them through their busy lives. Because of this lifestyle, dressing has become simplified. The clothing must have a purpose, if not comfort then functional. I had to let this write-up sit for a few days because I just couldn’t believe I wrote about a button-up. I’ve been so baffled by tank tops being the talk of the town. I’m constantly asking myself where are the clothes!? Where’s the drama, the fantasy? Are we too busy to fantasize? Do we now live in an era where the foundations of this industry can no longer exist? I must remind myself that this is only the first stop of fashion week. And I’m not one to compromise, but if I can’t have breathtaking and head-turning designs, then immaculate quality is a must! So as much as I hate what’s in the headlines, I get it.
Your articles are like lessons for me. In fashion. The history & details in your writing.